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New Orleans By Way of Chicago

April 27, 2022 by Abby Mallett 42 Comments

Have you ever been someplace your soul immediately responded to? That’s Chicago for me. Not everyone understands it and I genuinely like it that way. Chicago isn’t for everyone. It’s where my roots are, where my grandparents rest peacefully. The food in Chicago is the best in the world to me, and I will argue you down about it. It always seemed like my start and end would be there. Until I arrived in New Orleans. Stepping into the Marigny neighborhood, my insides said, “Oh I get it. I understand here.” 

Hotel Peter and Paul New Orleans
Elysian Bar New Orleans


I had been to New Orleans a couple times but accompanied by people, and while it was good it wasn’t amazing. Touring the city alone made me excited, and I’m grateful for Joy giving me the opportunity to do so. I stayed at the Hotel Peter & Paul – a converted Catholic church, school, convent and rectory turned hotel, bar, event space, and ice cream parlor. It is exactly what it should be – vintage, a little moody, and filled with stories. Arriving early, I settled in at the hotel’s bar, The Elysian Bar. The room is warm and cozy because of the curved amber bamboo wall surrounding the center of the room. A gentle breeze ruffled plaid curtains by the window. Feeling incredibly lucky, I ordered a Pimm’s cup and a light salad, smiling to myself the whole time.

Calling myself an adventurer would be a slight exaggeration. I definitely partake in adventuring but it is very planned. I’m checking the websites, I’m seeing if there’s parking, I’m reading the reviews and ignoring them. But catch me on vacation? Oh, you’re seeing a different Abby. There is a balance between seeing, doing, and relaxing on vacation. Vacation Abby is so chill, spontaneous even! You want to go for an impromptu walk? Say less! Recently though, my body has enjoyed letting me know it’s getting older very… forcefully.  Nonchalant exploration has been harder for me and anxiety inducing. Instead, I take my time, stop frequently, and wear these shoes. They’re a godsend.

breakfast at Alma in New Orleans
Loretta's Pralines in New Orleans


Inside my frequent stops I found gems. Colorful yet unassuming house siding holds historic homes and neighborhood eateries like Alma. It begs you to judge a book by its cover, and delivers a surprise every time. Houses that serve tacos with twinkle lights and heavy poured margaritas like Rosalita’s. Go pick up a Barq’s Root Beer at the corner store (specifically The Orange Store), only to find the best po’boy ever made in the back. Walk the neighborhood and find Loretta’s Authentic Pralines on Frenchmen & Rampart. Get a praline filled beignet. Grab a lot of napkins to wipe tears of unbridled joy and the mountain of powdered sugar that falls down into the front pocket of your overalls (me). Take the shakiest elevator ride up and over a bridge that leads you to the best view of the Mississippi River, where you feel small and part of it all at the same time. 

Life here moves at its own pace. If it wants to move fast, sure. If it wants to move slow, absolutely. If it doesn’t want to move at all? Mind your business. Stores that should be open might not be open. Know why? I think you’re getting the hang of the answer. My little bit of meandering led my findings to be correct. Even when I made my way to Joy, we ended up spontaneously ice dyeing shirts in her backyard before rolling about town leisurely. You take the pace as is. Even if the pace is backyard ice dyeing (which was so fun!).

 

New Orleans isn’t pretty. It’s old and beautiful. It reminds you of that fact when visiting – its Parisian roots reflect it. Grungey, graffitied, narrow… and perfect. I find myself in love with a city and its food for the first time outside of my hometown. I know I’ll be back over and over again.

If you’re visiting New Orleans and want to stop at Joy’s favorite spots, check them out here!

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Filed Under: Beyond the Kitchen, New Orleans

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jen

    April 28, 2022 at 9:42 pm

    Oh how I love this! We’re city twins, but reversed – I’m a New Orleans native in Chicago and share your sentiments about both cities. I never thought I’d love or truly feel at home in another city like I do NOLA, until I moved to Chicago. Such different places, but complex and beautiful in their own way. And comfy shoes are a must for getting around both! :)

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 29, 2022 at 2:20 pm

      Omg I love this so much!!

      Reply
  2. Staci

    April 28, 2022 at 2:05 pm

    This is wonderful! I live in Chicago and knew I would LOVE New Orleans before I even went. When I finally got there, my love was solidified. Now I need to go back post haste!

    Reply
  3. Meagan

    April 28, 2022 at 1:43 pm

    Great post! I could feel the magic of New Orelans. I want to see your Ice Dye results!

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 1:54 pm

      I had to leave the ice dyed shirt there to get washed! So I would ALSO like to see the results, JOY WILSON *ahem*

      Reply
  4. toby

    April 28, 2022 at 1:40 pm

    oh, how I would love to meet Vacation Abby in NOLA sometime!

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 1:55 pm

      Oh my goodness I would love that! She’s a good time! She also WILL be taking a nap.

      Reply
  5. Katherine Ross

    April 28, 2022 at 1:33 pm

    PRALINE FILLED BEIGNET.

    Reply
  6. Amy

    April 28, 2022 at 1:16 pm

    Oh yes! 100%—thank you for saying it so well.

    Reply
  7. Gail

    April 28, 2022 at 1:01 pm

    Thank you for an unforgettable lunch time trip to New Orleans. Loved it.

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 2:08 pm

      Hi mama!! Thank you :)

      Reply
  8. Ed

    April 28, 2022 at 12:51 pm

    Felt like I was right there with her! Amazing use of words.

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 2:02 pm

      :) :) :) thanks Dad!

      Reply
  9. deb

    April 28, 2022 at 8:43 am

    Abby-I really really appreciated this post. How you described your time, the FOOD and your adventures in one of my favorite places in America! Im heading to Loretta’s one of the days I’m in town to eat and enjoy a chocolate praline…..
    Deb

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 1:57 pm

      Thank you so much! And I’m so excited for you over this beignet!

      Reply
  10. Kim

    April 28, 2022 at 8:05 am

    Oh man, I loved reading this. Also, lol me for not realizing you live in Chicago. Well, joke’s on them because I can drive to Chicago faster than I can drive to NOLA. See you soon? ?

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 1:58 pm

      South Side born and bred! Honestly, maybe I’ll come to you, it’s been a minute since I’ve been to Frothy Monkey!

      Reply
      • Catherine Short

        April 30, 2022 at 1:49 pm

        Yes, please come to TN :-) AND I live right by a Frothy!

        Reply
  11. Honey

    April 28, 2022 at 7:53 am

    Do check out 3 Southern Girls restaurant, right outside of NOLA in Old Jefferson! The smell and feels are like stepping into your grandma’s home after church on Sundays!

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 1:59 pm

      Honey, noted and archived! I’ll make sure to check it out – thank you!

      Reply
  12. Linda

    April 28, 2022 at 7:45 am

    Abby, your voice as a writer welcomes the reader like an old friend!

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 2:00 pm

      Thank you so much!

      Reply
  13. Ramona

    April 28, 2022 at 5:51 am

    Loved reading this! I’m ready to travel to New Orleans!

    Reply
    • connie dunfield

      April 28, 2022 at 9:57 am

      Ramona, I was born in New Orleans. Please check the weather before you go, the heat & humidity, it’s like walking through a “wet wool blanket”. Also, use the Streetcars they’ll take you through the French Quarters and The Garden District. I really enjoyed Abby’s article, she said it well! My favorite sandwich in the FQ’s is the Muffuletta at Central Grocery & Deli.

      Reply
      • Ramona

        April 28, 2022 at 4:18 pm

        Thanks, Connie, I’ve lived in South Texas and currently in Oklahoma City so I’m familiar with humidity! Lol! I screenshot your reply so I can keep the information of the street cars! Thank you so much ??

        Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 2:01 pm

      I hope you do soon! Please PLEASE stay at the Hotel Peter & Paul. It makes the entire trip so dreamy!

      Reply
  14. Sunshine

    April 28, 2022 at 5:21 am

    Abby, I could read your writing all day, Thanks for this “offering” as Joy often calls it.

    Reply
  15. Kristen

    April 28, 2022 at 4:48 am

    Love this writing! I absolutely relate to the adventure side when traveling and exploring… but yeah I’m reading all the reviews too! Thank you for sharing Abby! May our sensible shoes take us far.

    Reply
    • Abby Mallett

      April 28, 2022 at 2:02 pm

      Thank you so much! Sensible shoes have saved me. It’s TEVA’s and Chaco’s all summer!

      Reply
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