[N]ew Orleans, you beast. You wild, unpredictable, crazy fun, wholly overwhelming place. New Orleans isn’t just a city… it’s a spirit and culture. It’s a lady and a trouble-maker. It’s palpable and irresistible, and will not be ignored. New Orleans, you excite me. New Orleans, I’m hungry. New Orleans, I love you.
I’ve lived for the past year as a new New Orleanian. Fresh in this world. Wide eyes. Lost in the streets. Enamored by the sights and sounds. And sometimes… well, I’m a little overwhelmed by new city. There’s a lot for this California girl to learn about the Deep South. A lot to learn about Southern hospitality, being a neighborly neighbor, oyster eating, and brunch. Those are all the easy things to learn.
I’ve spent the past year living smack-dab in the middle of the French Quarter. It’s been nutty: filled with music and art and always new tourist friends. I’m saying goodbye to the French Quarter and moving my kitchen, all my cookbooks, and TronCat… Uptown. Let’s go cook in a new kitchen! I can’t wait to share my new space with you. It’s quaint and you’re invited over for cookies, always.
Here are a few things I’ve learned so far in New Orleans:
• When passing strangers on the street: Say hello / Say good morning / Say good day / Nod and smile / Smile and wave. Always acknowledge. There’s no such thing as ignoring a stranger. They will not be a stranger for long.
• The summer months are hotter than blue blazes. If you’ve don’t know how hop blue blazes are, ask my mom… she gave me that expression. Also steamy. So incredibly steamy. Keep telling yourself it’s good for your skin.
• The ladies at (the grocery store) Rouses don’t play. Come correct or don’t come. They do not play.
• Wear a bike helmet. People drive crazy for real and the cracks and bumps in the road can jump up and bite you. Whomever it was in Los Angeles that told you bike helmets are uncool doesn’t respect their own head and brain.
• Don’t wear headphones. Listen to the music and feel the pulse. It’s everywhere.
• It’s important to find your people. Moving to a new city is hard and, for me, finding my footing is linked to finding my people. Because New Orleans is the South… amazingly enough, your people will find you, email you, invite you over for coffee and pie… and because you’re in the South, you say yes to coffee and pie with strangers and you make new friends. It’s very good.
• Drink a lot of water because you never know when one glass of champagne at happy hour will turn into one bottle of champagne.. on a Tuesday. There’s always a reason to celebrate.
• In New Orleans you can be who you are… and why not throw on a wig while you’re at it.
• It’s important to know the best:
Coffee: Hi-Volt / Oysters: Peche (also get a sazerac!) for fresh oysters and Cochon for grilled oysters / Daiquiris: Cane and Table / Beignets: Cafe du Monde / Wine and bites: Bacchanal
More of my New Orleans suggestions here!
Come visit wouldya? I’ve got more to learn and a house full of cookies.
82 Responses
love this post, but joy, ya gotta know the best beignets are at morning call! ????
I adore people who have positive things to say about New Orleans! You are my latest (blog) favorite! I’m sure I will enjoy your Blog/site/etc very much! A fellow New Orleanian~Faye!
New Orleans is the best! And I’m not just saying that because I live here!
Welcome Uptown! You’ll love it. I’ve been following you for years and are so excited that you now live in my city, if only for the selfish reason that I get to see your delicious take on food I already know and love!
Now I really want to visit New Orleans!!
https://justsem.wordpress.com/
I was on on a project in Baton Rouge for 3 years for work, and I’ve got to tell you, most of these things hold true. As a New England girl, there will definitely now always be a place in my heart for the South.
I’ve never been, but want to visit so badly. Crawfish are whispering my name.
When my husband and I were first dating, we took our first getaway together to New Orleans. We fell in love with the city and the music and the food (and each other) and it has always been this special, memorable place for us. It’s so fun to read your stories and adventures living there, and makes me even more anxious to go back someday soon! Good luck with your move!
Joy, welcome to Uptown! The Quarter is great but it’s a whole different kettle of fish than Uptown (which is why I love this city — variety). Uptown moves at a slower pace and is definitely quieter. We love our Irish Channel ‘hood!
Thank you so much! So excited to walk around and explore this new area!
Sounds amazing. Packing my bags…
How exciting that you’re moving house! Good luck!
I will remember this post – and your other ones with New Orleans if (when!) I go there.
Hey, Joy? You are phenomenal.
I love New Orleans and I love reading your posts about that amazing and beautiful city! I’m ready to came back! I can’t wait to follow your adventuress to your new place! Didn’t like living in the French Quarter? I imagine it would be amazing but busy (and loud) haha.
Wow I’m from Los Angeles as well and have been living in NOLA for six months. It’s great to meet a fellow Californian (everyone thinks I am insane). Feel free to contact me!
I lived there for three years and go back as often as possible! During my last trip I got to try Peche — AMAZING oysters and seafood all around. Also got to go back to Bacchanal (one of my all-time favorite spots). I wrote all about it here! https://penpaperstorm.wordpress.com/2015/02/19/love-new-orleans/ In fact, my blog started due to Hurricane Isaac.
I love when other people love NOLA =)
It’s obvious that you love your new city. But I have been wondering what made you pick up and leave California and why you picked New Orleans? Any certain reason or did you just pick a place with darts on a dart board? Love your recipes!
Love this! Planning to visit for the first time this fall and can’t wait!
Just moved back South (Alabama) after a couple of years up North (Connecticut). I’m trying to find my place & my people in this newness. I’m finding that yes, people are absolutely more friendly, but only to a certain degree- no one has invited us over for supper or pie or coffee. I should probably just invite them. What I love is now nobody makes fun of my “y’all”. N’Orleans is awesome.
I live in Uptown! If I ever run into you, I’ll probably go into hardcore fan-girling mode.
Uptown is so wonderful;) enjoy enjoy enjoy!!! Keeping my fingers crossed that I get into Tulane so I can come play too!
Welcome to Uptown! It’s a great part of the city, and I have absolutely loved every minute of living here. Plus, in Uptown you’re closer to Creole Creamery and Manhattan Jack’s amazing Pain au Chocolat. Enjoy and hope to see you around town !
So happy for you Joy, you sound so excited and alive. A great city will do that for you. While I have not had the pleasure of visiting that fair lady you call New Orleans, your vivid descriptions allowed me to imagine myself there! From one California sister to another, thank you.
Wonderful! So you have taken a likin’ to the us all!
Always wanted to go to New Orleans! Hope the move went well. Enjoy everything your new home has to offer!
http://www.shopsaul.blogspot.com
Thank you for this post, Joy! I’m coming to New Orleans in April for the first time. (Staying in the Uptown neighborhood) Can’t wait!
I’ve already learned from you that I should go to District for doughnuts. What are your feelings about hickory coffee? Any suggestions for good vegetarian meals? I feel like this is a tall order.
Love your blog!
New Orleans sounds wonderful, never had the chance to visit. Good luck on your new digs. Hotter than blue blazes, yes sounds just like my hot flashes maybe mom knows but she might be too young still for that. Have a good weekend. Paulette
My cousin runs an amazing food truck in NO called St Clair Pizza! Real Neapolitan Wood Fired Pizza! He’s on IG too, he’d love for you to check him out Joy!
Great post! New Orleans is really a very cool city with a neat vibe. Looking forward to pics of your new place :)
So, I appreciate all this advice except the headphones. There is some music that just begs to be heard only through some high-def, ear covering headphones. Riders on the Storm by the Doors, or anything recent by Radiohead, just to get started. There’s things you just can’t hear without them.
I love that you love your new city! I’m contemplating a similar move, leaving the comforts of a familiar city where I’ve found a strong, loving community to a city across the country where I know not a soul. But seeing how you’ve successfully made a similar move is so inspiring. What a difference a year makes!
I keep thinking, “well if Joy can do it, so can I!” Thank you for sharing with us!
I’ve been dreaming of a return to New Orleans. That city is magical.
Wow..I’m a southern Texas girl…..I thought this was all normal….strangers are new friends and all deserve a greeting
Ohhh killing me!! I was only there for a week in January and fell totally in love with it, I’d love to move there too!! Craving beignets now!!
Perfect timing! I have been looking at your all your NOLA posts – I am going on a road trip from Dallas to New Orleans next month!
I am dying to visit New Orleans. I like that everyone says hi to each other on the streets…very sweet
https://www.getchaglowon.com
I’ve been dreaming of visiting New Orleans for years but since I see regular snapshots on your blog it has been very high on my list… I’m glad you found your people :).
Joy,
You might appreciate this beautiful, short radio story about community, creativity, and potholes in New Orleans!
https://soundcloud.com/mallory-falk/team-shoobidoos-the-enemy-around-every-corner
I loved reading this post because you sound so happy and upbeat and like you have FOUND your groove and place and that everything has clicked after your cross country move! I am so happy for you and your bravery in uprooting yourself and just moving across the country alone and with no family or friends, that is just….an amazing feat!
Welcome to uptown new neighbor!
Find your people. Excellent advice. Sometimes hard to do in New Orleans, especially for this Cali girl. Welcome to Uptown. We are glad to have you.
This year I’ve been obsessed with going to New Orleans. I think I will love it. I’m a little tired of NYC and how hard it makes you. I could def use a dose of southern hospitality!
My favorite thing about living in the south was how everyone always said hi to each other on the street. Here, in LA, not so much. Very normal to just pass people and look down. Can’t wait to see the new space! xo
This makes me want to live in New Orleans! I would brave the heat!
Kari
http://www.sweetteasweetie.com
New Orleans is on my must do list! I keep seeing all these great posts and tv shows on it and really want to come and enjoy the city and eat a lot of great food!
Leslie
http://www.alifewellconsumed.com
I’m coming to New Orleans in April for a conference! I am so happy, because I have long wanted to visit,(and not just because I am up to my knees in snow right now). So thanks for all the tips for visitors and keep them coming.
{Happy Friday!} Your ghost didn’t scare you off, did she??? :)
The Hubs and I are headed to NOLA in a few weeks! Cannot wait to get my eat, drink, and people watching on! Let me know when the cookies are ready.
We’re thrilled to have you here in New Orleans (especially as a fellow transplant from California). Hope you’re recovering from Mardi Gras and good luck with the move Uptown – I’m walking in the Uptown Irish Club’s St. Patrick’s Day parade, look for me on the route and I’ll throw you something!
Thinking of you as you move locations. Love you so!!!!!
I want to go so bad! I will make it over someday. The culture seems so incredible.
Oh my, makes me want to visit New Orleans! Time to find me some mardi gras jewelry and some wig!
Juju
https://www.jujusprinkles.com
I swear to Pete if you’re serious about that, I will happily come visit. And if you’re ever in Southern Arizona, I have a couch for you. I’ll even throw down a few pillows! ;^)
I’ve always wanted to visit the South but being from NYC, I don’t think my brain would like that very much. Your description actually reminds me of the small towns in PA. Makes me a bit homesick for college actually. Great post!
Cielo
Happy Little Things”
I was there a couple weeks ago visiting my best girl friend who moved back home to NOLA after having some fun few 20-something-lady years in NYC with me. I LOVE New Orleans too! It has such a strong personality. I miss it like a person when I leave. The only other place I’ve felt like that towards was Hawaii. Kauai beckons me with its rainbows and jungles and New Orleans calls me back with it’s jazzy horns and crazy delicious food. Seriously, everything I put in my mouth there was an A+. Have you been to Pizza Delicious Joy? Oh man. Get the non-pizza entrees too! The risotto was amazing. I bought a t-shirt. And I need to thank you for your District doughnuts recommendation! I went thrice and am still dreaming about those doughnuts and sliders. Daaaaamn! I was on the lookout for you when I was there. Maybe next time I will see you and buy you a cocktail.
We just got back from our honeymoon in New Orleans a couple of weeks ago. I happened upon that building across your balcony and hollered your name, but you must’ve been out or hiding from the random calling your name (understandable LOL!). We also visited that Rouses down the street and I agree those ladies don’t play, but I thought they were hilarious! I love New Orleans and we hope to get a vacation home there someday soon. In the meantime, your posts about the city and Instagram pics remind me why I love it! I hope you enjoy Uptown and maybe we can share coffee and pie on our next visit! If you’re ever in Las Vegas, I’d love to share some coffee…or a cocktail! Good luck with your move! :)
Love this post! I have always wanted to go to New Orleans. Someday soon I hope. It looks like a charming city and I love when you give some snippets.
Could I really come visit? I’m going to NOLA next month, would love to meet you and talk food and blogging (and have a cookie!)
Recently moved to Mobile with my husband. We will be running through your list! :)
You just made me want to pack my wig and go there!
Yay! This is absolutely delightful. We’re going in March for a friends wedding and can’t wait! The tips were helpful – the Deep Southerners are a different breed of cat than Californians. Going from CA to TX has definitely taken a little getting used to as well! Is your soul just wholly fed by the underground rhythm? It must be incredible to live in such a culturally rich place.
I just love this! New Orleans is such a special city and I wish I could get over there more often. You’re number one tip is a good one to remember all through the South, we never meet a stranger! :)
yes, this place I call home is amazing! More great places to try for meals: Root, Lilette, Brigtsen’s, Dante’s Kitchen (the spoonbread is divine!), any of the great Vietnamese places- Pho Orchid, Namese, Magasin, etc. Baie Rouge is delicious too! We have so many great restaurants, it’s hard to narrow them down. :)
How did you like Mardi Gras?
I’ve never been to NOLA, but after reading this post it’s definitely on my list of places to visit. Enjoy your move uptown! Can’t wait to read about the other things that you learn in your new place.
I’m actually getting ready to move into my own place for the first time and I think a lot of this applies to being in a new town in general. Or at the very least, the part about finding your people. That’s probably the thing that I’m most worried about.
Love the photos!
Marisa
Oh my, girl, you do not know how to sit still! Moving again? How brave/great are you?! You are def inspiring me to kick it up a notch. Good luck and thanks for doing what you do!
One year down! <3.
I agree with the no strangers advice… We’ve made fast & easy friends with residents in the Quarter just by walking & talking. Love it so much. Will be there in April, Would love to say hi!!
Ugh, you’re making me miss the South so much, especially the food and the friendly people (slightly biased, since I am a Southerner). So much harder to find your people in other places. So glad you’re staying there!
New Orleans just keeps moving higher and higher on my list of trips to take.
Lived in New Orleans for many many years but now live on the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain. My husband has a big band that plays for carnival balls etc. First ball is coming up soon! There is no better food than in NOLA. No one is a stranger is NOLA. You automatically become family.
Joy! My Fiancé and I are planning to go to New Orleans for our honeymoon in November! We just love jazz and blues music & southern food! I would love nothing more than to meet one of my baking idols! I am a baker from Las Vegas, have been following you for years even before culinary school. Loved this post!
Uptown! Welcome to the neighborhood! I’ll see you at Rouses.
Love this post! I’ve been to New Orleans twice in my life–during very different circumstances: once in 7th grade with my best of friends, and once to do community service after Katrina. It is such a strong, resilient city full of amazing culture.
My husband spent his first year of law school in NOLA and loved every crazy minute of it.
You are making me miss New Orleans so much. Its been years. Which is sort of a crime since I live In Austin, TX! I’m so glad you are enjoying & embracing your new city.
We used to live in Houma and would swing on over to visit. Such a city! Rouses always made me think of the R.O.U.Ses. :)
I knew the South would do right by you! It’s such a friendly place :) I’m so glad you’re taking the time to enjoy it truly. Less internet, more real life. That’s my motto lately :)
XO
Your happiness is delightful…good life ahead for you, blue blases and all..
Stay safe, healthy and happy. You are well loved.
My husband has a conference there next month and I’m tagging along – can’t wait! Wish you were still going to be in the French Quarter because I would LOVE to meet you Joy! I’m clicking over to read more of your New Orleans suggestions now, so I can start planning all of my free time! Have a great weekend!
Lovely Post! My family is from New Orleans and you made me miss home. Visiting New Orleans is a magical experience and it would be amazing to live there again. It is a special place, thanks for sharing.
Ditto! Ditto!! So glad you are moving Uptown. We’ll have to meet at PJs sometime!
I just love you Joy!
I would seriously love to visit New Orleans at some point – it looks and sounds so full of energy and fun! Hope you have a good move and enjoy your new place!
You show again that New Orleans is full of life! Although I personally have never been there I’m convinced that this is really a wonderful place and it was a pleasure for me to read that even the people on the streets are greeting the other people. Wish you further many fun in your new home there <3
xx from Bavaria/Germany, Rena
http://www.dressedwithsoul.com