Some cities are just filled with magic. London has magic. St.Louis has spooky magic. I think my Venice home has a good amount of sparkle magic. But New Orleans… New Orleans is aalll magic.
I was lucky enough to visit this special city last week. Because it was my first visit to New Orleans, I.. a) melted in the humidity. b) was horrified by my frizzy hair. c) drank daiquiris in the streets. d) ate beignets several… SEVERAL times.
Want a peek? Here we go!
In every new city visit, it’s really nice to start with a map.
Two big streets and a curve in the grid.
Evening hours in the French Quarter.
Horse heads everywhere.
Evening hours outside of Saint Louis Cathedral.
Dark and romantic.
Evening hours inside this smokey, candlelit bar.
There was piano music, people huddled in conversation, and a really smelly drunk dude that danced me into a corner.
Tell me you’ve been danced into a corner… that’s real.
Ham, butter, and brie on a baguette is one of the best lunches EVER. Thank you St. James Cheese Company!
Louisiana beer is also as fine as could be. I’ve come to appreciate the wonders of the Strawberry Abita.
There’s a salad in that Bloody Mary… and I’m totally drinking this pineapple daquiri in the street!
It’s like a party everyday!
Any menu that serves Champagne and Fries is a menu I want to be reading.
I mean… come on!
Late night beignets at Cafe du Monde.
Yes… these were the second round of beignets I had eaten on this day.
Yes.. I ate a whole order myself.
Sometimes I have trouble sharing.
I spent a day at Jazzfest!
Crawfish bread. Cold beer. Gospel tent. And Ne-yo singing R&B Jamzzzzz!
Is this magic JR and the Inside Out Project!?
I think it is!
Look how rad humanity looks!
We ate big trays of crawfish!
It was awesome… but I’m still not sure how I feel about this.
Back to the beignets… clearly.
I was on a strict beignet diet.
In New Orleans I got to meet my oldest blog friend, Evan!
Evan and I have been chatting for the past four years. She knows about various boy and cake disasters. It was so nice to meet her and squeeze her pregnant belly. Love!
The cemeteries in New Orleans. So old and worn.
This particular cemetery had damaged headstones. These piled up pieces feel beautiful and unfortunate.
The cemeteries are beautiful… and also put just a tinge of fear in my heart. I don’t know what that is…
New Orleans is magic. The food. The sites. The people. The energy… you can feel it in the air.
Pro tips:
There is no need to lift your top for beads… you can get those anywhere. They’re even hanging from trees… no joke.
Order more beignets than you think you’ll need… because you’ll need them.
Stand in line for fried chicken at Coop’s Place.
Don’t share your crawfish bread at Jazzfest.
Thank the people that make New Orleans magic.
111 Responses
What an amazing adventure! NOLA is a city I’ve been drawn to since I was a child and when I got to go in college I was ecstatic the moment I got off the plane. It was in August and the mosquitoes and humidity did a number on me. Let”s just say my hair did a Simba type of hairdo…it was large and in charge. I’m so looking forward to going in November and experiencing a little cooler weather. Of course beignets, the restaurant Cochon, and sazeracs will be plentiful!
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This is my first visit to your blog and this post was so much fun to read. I’ve been to NOLA 4x and love all the color and interest of the area. Some pretty good food too. If you get back there be sure to get to Butcher/Couchon for the best Cubano sandwich ever! Visit my blog–I paint NO pictures a lot. Thanks for sharing about your visit there.
I’m so sad that you were there and I didn’t know about it. I would have hunted you down like Paparazzi :) So glad you loved our city. Please come back again soon!
i so miss NOLA. Can’t wait to go back and take my hubby…
Loved your pics, thanks!
If I had known you were here, I would have made you some pralines!
I LOVE that white dress, soooooooo cute!
Would love to visit New Orleans! Planning a US trip mid next year and it is totally on my list. Thanks for the tips, lovely. Can’t wait to feel the magic.
Heidi xo
Love love love this post. I was at the first weekend of jazz fest and it was my first time in the city. Couldn’t agree with your thoughts more…especially in regard to beignets.
New Orleans conjures one thought: beignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignetsbeignets!!!
okay, so I’m a little crazed…
Lovely pictures and there is nothing like New Orleans food or culture.
I always, ALWAYS describe NOLA as magical. It is truly a magnificent place, and I’ve made it my mission to go every year. I’ve been 5 times for the past 5 years and there’s no stopping me! Glad you loved it as much as I do…how could you not?!
Hi, Joy! I live in NOLA and sooo wish that I would have run into you at Jazz Fest! I think I just missed you at Lafitte’s and Coop’s Place. My friends and I were drinking our way through the Quarter and ended up on a balcony across from Coop’s and couldn’t believe the line. I’m so glad that you had a great time. Love all your pictures!
Ah yes, my beloved New Orleans. I met my man there 12 years ago so I get back frequently. You did it justice in this post. Lovely! ps. hope you had an oyster po’boy!
I fell in love with New Orleans (minus the horrible, horrible humidity) when I first visited. But that was for a conference, so I didn’t get to spend nearly enough time exploring. I can’t wait to go back. Unfortunately, the hot hot heat is acting as a deterrent for my friends and family. Californians are wimpy about weather, I tell ya.
But I will get back to New Orleans, I swear it. Maybe in December.
Agreed! We went there for a long weekend to celebrate our first wedding anniversary, and it is indeed very full of magic. It barely feels like America, to me, because it’s so old and voodoo-ey. I can’t wait to go back again – three days was not enough. I need more beignets.
Hi Joy! I’ve been reading for over a year but have never commented. THANK YOU for your “there is no need to lift your top for beads” comment. I’m a proud New Orleans girl living in the midwest, and it saddens me to hear people assume that going topless for beads is the only thing to do in my city. We are so much more than that! Glad you had a good trip- thanks for the beautiful photography and awesome recipes!
nola takes a part of my heart every time i go there & i gladly open up that space for her. you definitely sip a hurricane at lafitte’s, sneak those extra beignets & eat (numerous times) at coops (: or at least i do, anyways!
Lovely! One city I can’t wait to visit!
(and I am all about a biegnet diet!)
Fantastic post. You captured New Orleans so well in your photos and descriptions! It’s truly one of my favorite places. I spent about 12 days there in March, and that apparently wasn’t enough because I’m meeting some friends there THIS WEEKEND!! Wooo!
I visited New Orleans with my family when I was ten. Let’s not talk about accidentally ending up on Bourbon Street at 10 pm…(when you’re 10, it’s really quite the education)…and instead let’s talk about how I can STILL taste those Cafe du Monde beignets all these years later. Oh lordy.
As a native to the region, I’m so glad you enjoyed your visit to New Orleans. You are correct, there is a magic here that can not be duplicated anywhere. I think that magic is part of why I have never been able to leave!
And I am glad you were able to enjoy such great eats, especially beignets. I am a firm believer that everyone should be able to eat beignets whenever they want! :)
I love how you’ve captured your time in the city! New Orleans is a place I’ve always wanted to visit. Some day soon!!
NOLA is so magical. I used to live 3 hours away in MS & it’s like going to a completely different world! Makes me happy you immersed yourself and enjoyed the hell out of it! Now that I’m living in North Carolina (moved 3 months ago), it was great to see this post and live vicariously…
Great pics makes me want to go to NOLA asap. Especially for the champagne and fries!
Looks like you had a great trip! The photos are all so great and really capture the culture I too experienced in NOLA!
xo Kayla
Oh, how I love NOLA! I went there 8 years ago and I have been dreaming of going back ever since. I love all the magic, food, music, and ghosts that it holds. I ate beignets at Cafe du Monde ever single morning when I was there. Did you have a muffuletta? The ones at Central Grocery are the best… Oh, how I love and miss NOLA! Great pics!
OMG! I was there for the last weekend of jazzfest too. Enjoyed a cemetary tour, drank my bloody mary’s with salad, and after viewing your pictures I’m wondering if you were following me around! Lol.
It is a totally magical city.
OK so wait. The Champagne and fries. Is that…a bottle of Champagne? Or a glass? Is the glass generous? Did you order that??!
New Orleans is one of my favorite places in the world. I went there on a voluntourism trip last year, and the people there just stole my heart. Not to mention the food, the music, the history, the architecture, the crazy energy! You are right, it’s truly magical. Next time you go, hit up The Maple Leaf bar on Tuesday night for Rebirth Brass Band! I’ve seen them once in NOLA and once in San Diego now, and they are offffff thaaa hoooook :D
Oh, that am, butter, and brie baguette is calling out to me. I love brie to death.
I used to live here! Magic is the perfect word! I’m glad you got a round of crayfish and experienced the jazz! xxx
Are those dilly beans in that bloody mary? I am hoarding and not sharing the dilly beans my friend Emily gave me. They are amazing.
Champagne & fries? Sign me up.
Born in New Orleans and spent the first 12 years of my life there! It is indeed magic!
Your cookbook was my mothers day gift!! Love it!!
SO happy you got to experience the magic of NOLA, Fest, beignets AND Liuzza’s!! Brilliant. Also – just the everyday magic of walking the streets of that great city. Love it so much.
I want u to go back Im enjoying this vacation!! I am beyond jealous for real tho.
You told a gorgeous magic story through your words and pictures. It sounds incredible. One day I will go for sure. And maybe order up champagne and fries. Perfection.
N.O. is defiantly a bucket list place to visit. My first trip was as a 15 year old in the early 70’s. I remember the shock and awe of it all. It’s such a cool place, you should go back and visit the outlying areas and historic neighborhoods.
everything looks so delish!
Hi Joy! Where did you get that Bloody Mary? It looks delicious! And did you happen to try the one at The Green Goddess?
This summer I’m going to do another trip around USA and I was thinking about New Orleans and then Las Vegas/Grand Canyon. Girl, your photos just made my mind!
PS: I love your book Joy. I cannot wait to do a recipe from there.
Beautiful photographs Joy! I haven’t been to New Orleans in years, but what a great place! The beignets are making my mouth water. Need to go back!
Great pics! I am dying to visit NOLA, so I love getting a glimpse of it. Wish you would have shared why you were there though! For the jazzfest?
Your figure is tooooo cute for eating all those beignets! Seriously. I just LOOK at a beignet and my hips GROW!
I am from Europe and New Orleans was the destination chosen for our Honey Moon. Way before Katarina… I loved it so much!
Is that a Target skirt?
whaaaat are you even doing with your life right now. these pictures, this food, these cities? it’s soooo so awesome. i’m jealous.
I laughed out loud when you talked about being danced into a corner because that has absolutely happened to me before. I’m pretty sure that’s the worst! Looks like you have a lovely trip to New Orleans–I’d love to visit someday.
Thank you much for sharing this- I lived in NOLA for many years and miss it everyday. These are some of my old haunts. When I was last there in October I brought my boyfriend to Coop’s- rocked his world. Changed his life. There’s just something about that town!
Those crawfish look absolutely delicious. I’m loving all these travel posts of yours. It looks like you’ve been having a wonderful time getting to travel around and taste new food and meet people. I’m living vicariously through them right now.
New Orleans is, indeed, magical. Every time I visit, I find another reason to love it. Looks like you had a marvelous time! =)
Absolutely love this entry! Can’t wait to see if you turn out any cajun inspired recipes for us. NOLA is a short drive away from me for good times and great food! Oh, btw, I’m a new reader and my family has loved every recipe i’ve played with from your blog. (I’ve got your cheesecake, that I’ve made three times, chillin’ in my fridge as I type) :D
I visited New Orleans for this first time this year too! It really is magical. The food, the people, the sites. I was so sad to leave. Glad you had such an amazing trip!
New Orleans IS magic. Bayou country is one of my very favorite places to be. Being vegan, the food situation is hit or miss there, however. But that’s allll right, ’cause daiquiris are totally my kind of dinner!
xo,
shalan
Love the photography in this post!
Firstly…YAY!!!! New Orleans is by far my favorite!!!
Second…LOVE this font! What is its name???
Third…and MOST important….whose sexy man hand was holding that Bloody Mary?!?!? (bow chicka bow wow!)
Luv the post and LOVE my girl Joy! :-)
Hey Joy! Have you ever travelled to South America? You should come here to Buenos Aires! Great food, lots of dulce de leche!
As a local I can confirm that yes, this city is alllllll magic! So happy you were able to visit during Jazz Fest and enjoy a few rounds of beignets. I hope you visit us again soon!
Joy! I live in New Orleans and am an avid follower of your blog and listener of your podcast. I’m so glad you enjoyed our wonderful city and especially got to spend a day at jazz fest. Beignets never get old, even after living here for 8 years. If you come back please let me know and I would love to show you some more foodie fun things to do!
Strawberry Abita!!! My mouth has dreams of this beer. I miss it so much.
Beautiful pictures! Thank you for sharing!
I love, love, love NOLA. I like to think I can live off beignets and gumbo…and etouffee…and shrimp creole. And daiquiris. You’re right, it is just magic.
Lafitte’s is my go to bar whenever in NOLA. So laid back and fun to watch people there. Do a Ghost Tour next time – they are great. The city is truly magical – but next time go earlier – less humidity!
Oh, I love this city. I traveled twice to New Orelans and it’s really a magical place. The people are so special, so nice and wonderful. I wish I live around the corner.
I’ve always want to go to NO! Thanks for some tips.
The Dream: to be on a Beignet Diet for 1 week.
you’ve made me want to go to New Orleans.
It looks and sounds fantastic
I went to New Orleans for the first time last summer and was blown away by how different it was from everywhere I’ve been. Yeah, bourbon street was a little insaneo, though a good experience…drinking in the streets, I’m down for that. The beignets are killer….it’s incredible how something so freaking simple can be such a pleasurable eat. I hope you tried jumbalaya, fried green tomatoes and gumbo (my favorite foods of Louisiana). I’m bummed that I never had crawfish bread. Beautiful photographs – it looks like you had an amazing time!
New Orleans is on my list of places to visit. It does look magical, indeed!
I LOVE, love me some New Orleans! The food – shrimp po’boys are my weakness…crawfish etouffee – mmm, buckets of crawfish. Puffy fingers and ankles from all of the salt and heat… Music all day and allll night…HORNS! Being danced into a corner is part of the charm, and dancing yourself out only adds to it. On a previous visit to NOLA I was told by a very drunk stranger-man with a charming Southern accent that he was going to take me home and lick my teeth, he’d never seen teeth so nice. I laughed, then cringed when I realized he was serious. And, yes, the cemeteries…beauty and history, and a little bit eerie. Ah, the charm of NOLA, amIright? Got BIG love for that city.
I could have walked right passed you at Jazz Fest! I live in the Quarter in New Orleans and wish I could have stopped you for an autograph! I’m an avid fan of your book and blog.
Humidity is the worst!
New Orleans IS magic! I lived there when I was in college 10 years ago and still miss it every day. I just have to know…where did you get that bloody mary? Looks delicious. Thanks for sharing!
You really captured new Orleans. I think you got the best of everything. It’s nice to see everything looking so much better after the katrina storm. We went there to volunteer after the storm and it didn’t look so nice. This post makes me want to go back again.
Vintagehoneybee.blogspot.com
So glad you enjoyed NOLA. It’s a place I’m so proud to call my hometown. Such wonderful people, culture and history, not to mention FOOD! I hope you got to try a snowball too! Sort of a staple when it warms up around here. :-)
Never been to New Orleans but now after reading this post, I think I should add that on my list of places to visit! Drinking a daiquiri on the streets is definitely something I want to do!
My hometown! I’m drooling just looking at the photos. Whenever I go back to visit, it’s a culinary whirlwind tour. I have to have gumbo, crawfish, oysters, muffaletta, oyster and artichoke soup, snoballs, beignets and coffee. And that’s just on the first day. HAVE FUN!!
Love the photos, that lace dress is so pretty!!!
All of this food looks so good! Crawfish boils in the lower 9th ward are amazing, you gotta suck the heads for all of the flavor.
I am a high school student who is looking into culenary schools. If people could check out my blog that would be amazing!
https://afoodfrenzy-sophia.blogspot.com/?m=1
New Orleans is my favorite place! I used to live there.
I was at jazz fest that day!!! Wish I had seen you. (But I didn’t have your cookbook with me for you to sign!) New Orleans is really fabulous, I love going there too.
Joy, I just got home from some time away….I was out in the middle of nowhere helping some friends fix up and move into their new home. Needless to say we worked hard, slept when we could, and there really wasn’t even time to think about the lack of internet. Anyway- I am just now seeing your new blog layout! I will definitely miss the old classic one that you’ve had.m but I really like this one too. It’s still simole and crisp, but with PURPLE and some cool new fonts.
Can’t wait to finish reading all that I’ve been missing while I’ve been gone.
I absolutely love this post. My sister went to school in New Orleans and every time I visited her I truly felt the magic of the city. The jazz, the drinks, the crawfish, the beads, gumbo, everything is wonderful! So glad you had a stellar time!
Can’t believe we missed each other by three weeks. Mr. T and I will be celebrating ten years in the big easy. Bring on Cafe du Monde. And don’t think I didn’t notice your new big girl site. Fabulous!
Aren’t you two just adorable and fabulous!
You’re photo’s are amazing! I’ve been to new Orleans several times and actually remember;) your pictures capture the eerie, misty atmosphere perfectly.
New Orleans is my favorite place everrrrr. Loved all the photos – made me miss the south. :(
Oh, my favorite town. That’s where we went for our honeymoon!
Wow! It’s an amazing city!
My biggest dream is to fly to USA and go to Seattle, LA, New York.. geez, I’m so jealous! :-)
Greating from Poland :-)
Someday I hope to get there myself. It looks so wonderful and rich in culture. What a dream holiday !!!! Thanks Joy for sharing those fab pictures xxxx
Oh no, it’s happening again! Photos of beignets that I do not get to eat! My husband recently went to New Orleans and kept texting me photos of all the amazing food he was enjoying. The beignet photo almost caused a divorce (not really). Must go get beignets of my own!!!
Wow, the city looks like amazing fun–and anywhere you can go and have beignets as an acceptable meal substitute is definitely on my ‘must-visit’ list!!! Thanks so much for sharing your visit!
Ive never been to New Orleans but it definitely sounds like fun. I feel like so much of the food is high in fat and cholesterol, would that be a fair assumption?
How fun it must have been to meet your oldest blogging friend. I always find it amazing how we make great friends with bloggers we’ve never even met. I suppose it’s finding others that share the same passion that builds that friendship.
Glad you had fun. So tell me what’s spooky about St Louis, the haunted houses? Just curious since that’s where I’m from.
Aww, what a sweet post. I miss New Orleans. It’s been about 8 years since I’ve been there (wow, has it really been that long??) and I can’t wait to go back again! It has so much culture and character that it’s almost like visiting another country, except… not! :)
My wife and I used to live a couple hours away From New Orleans. We used to drive there JUST for the beignets. It’s an amazing city.
I’m Italian, but if I believed in past lives I would feel like I had lived in New Orleans during one of them. Longing for beignets.
So fun! I’ve always wanted to go there!
New orleans has been on my list of places to go FOREVER and now i want to go even more!!
Looks like you had a great time! I like the tip about getting beads lol
Crayfish is awesome. I didn’t know it was this big in the US as well. I went to my first crayfish party last summer while I was visiting my Swedish dad. It was quite the experience… Hehe.
You lucky lady! Your travels looked like they were so much fun. New Orleans looks so exotic, and the food…! Oh those beignets. I’d eat an order to myself too ;)
I love your you site design too! :)
New Orleans has so much going for it in terms of culture and food and nice people. I’d love to go sometime and stuff my face on their delicious food. I am certain I would enjoy all of it.
(Btw, tiny mention: The new font on your page looks uneven on my screen. The strokes are very faint and I am struggling to read your lovely recipes and trip stories. Don’t mind me, I’m going to the back of the room now.)
I miss New Orleans so much! I lived 1-2 hours away most of my life! There’s really no other place like it in the states.
I love NOLA!!! I went for the first time back in march, and your post reminded me of how much I miss the beignet diet. I wish café du monde existed here in LA… haha
What an awesome trip…a meetup with your oldest blog friend, beignets, NOLA itself, and a restaurant with champagne & fries on the menu.
Love the pic of you in the white dress!
New Orleans! I’m glad that you enjoyed NOLA; I’ve been going to school here for four years and I’m actually graduating this week (and terrified/depressed to leave). It’s quite a city, isn’t it?