New Orleans

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When people ask me how I like living in New Orleans I ask a question in return.  Have you ever been to New Orleans?  If you’ve been here, you have an idea of the strange, joyous, beautiful, gnarly magic.  In some ways it’s hard to describe unless you’ve experienced it.  

I started my New Orleans journey 2 years ago, in the French Quarter, having moved there from Venice, California.  Living in the French Quarter is like living on Mars… if Mars had a Disneyland… and if that Disneyland were two hundred years old… and everyone was drunk.  The French Quarter is New Orleans, but it’s not the only part of New Orleans.  Sure, there are a boatload of tourists stumbling around the French Quarter on any given day, but that’s because it’s an incredible place to visit.  Don’t miss it thinking you’re too cool for school… because no one is that cool (except probably Beyonce). 

mardi-gras

Native New Orleanians might argue that I’m not entitled to any of the below opinions about where to eat and what to do because I’ve been here for such a short time, because I got here after the storm, because I’ve never caught a coconut in the Zulu parade… and they’re right.  New Orleans is a place you have to earn, everyday… and I’m well aware that I’m still working on it.  Still though.  I have thoughts, and these are some of them.  

The one overarching opinion about New Orleans, native or not, is that we’re glad you’re coming to visit.  Genuinely.  We want you to come enjoy what we enjoy about this city, take lots of pictures, have a daiquiri, listen to the music, eat all of the food.  We want you here because we love it here.

Incidentally, DO NOT:  drink any alcoholic beverage sold in a plastic fish bowl, wear flip-flop sandals in the French Quarter, drink a Hurricane before noon (or ever, really), take a vampire tour, or take your top off (people don’t actually do that).  Ok?  Cool.

I’m going to break this guide up into my favorite New Orleans neighborhoods.  This is, by no means, an extensive list, just a helpful place to start.  New Orleans neighborhood maps, as a guide, with some handy printable versions for you.  

French Quarter

•  Café Amelie 912 Royal St.  New Orleans, LA 70116  //  A lovely courtyard brunch.  

•  Brennan’s New Orleans  417 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130  

•  Carousel Bar and Lounge  214 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Try to sit at the rotating bar and have a Sazerac!

•  Sylvain 625 Chartres St  New Orleans, LA 70130  //  I love to sit at the bar and eat a burger.  It’s a really good burger.  This is perhaps the best restaurant in the Quarter.  

•  Cafe Du Monde  813 Decatur St  New Orleans, LA 70116  //  Gotta go. Just go.  

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•  Napoleon House  500 Chartres St  New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Have a Pimm’s Cup and look around at how old the walls are.  

•  Bar Tonique  820 N Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70116  //  A very happy Happy Hour.  

•  Spitfire Coffee  627 St Peter St, New Orleans, LA 70116 //  Best coffee in the Quarter

•  UAL  518 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Designer shopping, very good prices.  I love this place! 

warehouse + cbd

•  Cochon + Cochon Butcher  930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130  // Undeniably great lunch and dinner.  The grilled oysters and a Sazerac are a thing of beauty.  

•  Peche  800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Sit at the bar and order too many oysters.  It won’t be cheap but it’s fun and worth it.  

•  Herbsaint  701 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130

 •  Keife & Co  801 Howard Ave, New Orleans, LA 70113  //  The best wine shop in town! 

•  Martine Chaisson Gallery   727 Camp St, New Orleans, LA 70130

•  Barrelproof  1201 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Go get you some whisky.  

•  Reyn Yoga  725 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Sweat it out.  

garden district

Commander’s Palace  1403 Washington Ave New Orleans, LA 70130  //  It’s an experience.  Weekend brunch is the move. Walk around the cemetery across the street after your meal.  Quintessential New Orleans.  

Juan’s Flying Burrito  2018 Magazine St  New Orleans, LA  //  Be careful, the margaritas are really good and go down like water. Also, the taco salad is surprisingly delicious.  

Stein’s Market and Deli  2207 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  A very good sandwich and some Philadelphia attitude.

13949088820_e4b061bb8a_z  District Donuts Sliders Brew  2209 Magazine St.  New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Forget the beignets, go here for a donut.  (I might get kicked out of New Orleans for saying that).  

Square Root  1800 Magazine St  New Orleans, LA 70130  //  I like to sit upstairs and order a cocktail (and sometimes a really expensive cheese plate).  

Loomed  Rink Shopping Center 2727 Prytania St #13, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Fine Turkish textiles.   Really beautiful things. 

Garden District Book Shop  Rink Shopping Center, 2727 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70130  //  Buy books from actual people who love and sell books! (There might be a few signed copies of my cookbook in there too!)

Irish Channel

•  Atchafalaya 901 Louisiana Ave  New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Such a wonderful neighborhood restaurant.  The shrimp and grits and duck fat Sazerac are fantastic! 

•  Coquette  2800 Magazine St  New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Delicious rotating dinner menu.  

•  Basin  3222 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Cocktails and oysters and fish tacos.

•  Baru  3700 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Latin-Caribbean tapas!  

uptown

•  Surrey’s  4807 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Go for breakfast.  

•  Magasin Cafe  4201 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 7011  //  Healthy Vietnamese food! 

•  Maple Leaf Bar  8316 Oak St, New Orleans, LA 70118  //  Go for a whisky and great music.  

•  Patois Restaurant 6078 Laurel St, New Orleans, LA 70118  //  One of my favorite restaurants in the city and I can’t believe I’m giving away my secret.  Lovely food.  Lovely staff.  In a homey uptown neighborhood.  Everything is right about it.  

•  Creole Creamery  4924 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Such good ice cream! 

•  St. James Cheese Company  5004 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Great cheese selection and really good sandwiches.  

•  Manhattan Jacks 4930 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70115  //  Get the Black and White Cookie 

•  Audubon Park  6500 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70118  //  Go for a lovely sunset walk.  

bywater

•  Elizabeth’s Restaurant  601 Gallier St.  New Orleans, LA 70117  //  Really great for breakfast.  Of course you’ll get a Bloody Mary and the Praline Bacon.  Of course you will.  

•  The Joint  701 Mazant St.  New Orleans, LA 70117  //  Delicious Barbecue.  Do it.  Do not hesitate.

•  Satsuma  3218 Dauphine St  New Orleans, LA  //  Where everyone in the Bywater gets their coffee and toast.  

•  Cake Cafe  2440 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70117  //  Sit yourself on the sidewalk and eat your breakfast.  

•  Bacchanal Wine  600 Poland Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117  //  One of the best places in all of New Orleans.  Buy a bottle of wine.  Sit at a folding table.  Order some eats.  Talk to everyone.  

New Orleans Recipes

New Orleans inspired recipes on Joy the Baker

Buttermilk Beignets  // Red Beans and Rice // Pimm’s Cup Cocktail  //  Muffuletta Pasta Salad  // Shrimp and Grits // Mardi Gras King Cake // Whole Roasted Cauliflower // Bourbon Pecan Pie with Chocolate  // 

Follow more of my New Orleans adventures on Instagram #jtbnola

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