Have you ever been someplace your soul immediately responded to? That’s Chicago for me. Not everyone understands it and I genuinely like it that way. Chicago isn’t for everyone. It’s where my roots are, where my grandparents rest peacefully. The food in Chicago is the best in the world to me, and I will argue you down about it. It always seemed like my start and end would be there. Until I arrived in New Orleans. Stepping into the Marigny neighborhood, my insides said, “Oh I get it. I understand here.”
I had been to New Orleans a couple times but accompanied by people, and while it was good it wasn’t amazing. Touring the city alone made me excited, and I’m grateful for Joy giving me the opportunity to do so. I stayed at the Hotel Peter & Paul – a converted Catholic church, school, convent and rectory turned hotel, bar, event space, and ice cream parlor. It is exactly what it should be – vintage, a little moody, and filled with stories. Arriving early, I settled in at the hotel’s bar, The Elysian Bar. The room is warm and cozy because of the curved amber bamboo wall surrounding the center of the room. A gentle breeze ruffled plaid curtains by the window. Feeling incredibly lucky, I ordered a Pimm’s cup and a light salad, smiling to myself the whole time.
Calling myself an adventurer would be a slight exaggeration. I definitely partake in adventuring but it is very planned. I’m checking the websites, I’m seeing if there’s parking, I’m reading the reviews and ignoring them. But catch me on vacation? Oh, you’re seeing a different Abby. There is a balance between seeing, doing, and relaxing on vacation. Vacation Abby is so chill, spontaneous even! You want to go for an impromptu walk? Say less! Recently though, my body has enjoyed letting me know it’s getting older very… forcefully. Nonchalant exploration has been harder for me and anxiety inducing. Instead, I take my time, stop frequently, and wear these shoes. They’re a godsend.
Inside my frequent stops I found gems. Colorful yet unassuming house siding holds historic homes and neighborhood eateries like Alma. It begs you to judge a book by its cover, and delivers a surprise every time. Houses that serve tacos with twinkle lights and heavy poured margaritas like Rosalita’s. Go pick up a Barq’s Root Beer at the corner store (specifically The Orange Store), only to find the best po’boy ever made in the back. Walk the neighborhood and find Loretta’s Authentic Pralines on Frenchmen & Rampart. Get a praline filled beignet. Grab a lot of napkins to wipe tears of unbridled joy and the mountain of powdered sugar that falls down into the front pocket of your overalls (me). Take the shakiest elevator ride up and over a bridge that leads you to the best view of the Mississippi River, where you feel small and part of it all at the same time.
Life here moves at its own pace. If it wants to move fast, sure. If it wants to move slow, absolutely. If it doesn’t want to move at all? Mind your business. Stores that should be open might not be open. Know why? I think you’re getting the hang of the answer. My little bit of meandering led my findings to be correct. Even when I made my way to Joy, we ended up spontaneously ice dyeing shirts in her backyard before rolling about town leisurely. You take the pace as is. Even if the pace is backyard ice dyeing (which was so fun!).
New Orleans isn’t pretty. It’s old and beautiful. It reminds you of that fact when visiting – its Parisian roots reflect it. Grungey, graffitied, narrow… and perfect. I find myself in love with a city and its food for the first time outside of my hometown. I know I’ll be back over and over again.
If you’re visiting New Orleans and want to stop at Joy’s favorite spots, check them out here!
Hailey
One of my absolute favorite things in the world is witnessing other people fall in love with New Orleans and your post was such a treat. New Orleans was indeed THAT city for me. I thought I was being “polite” by visiting friends (who, funny enough, are originally from Chicago–– we met in Denver before my husband and I headed back to our native CA and they returned to New Orleans) and within 24 hours of that first visit in 2014 I said, “OH. No. I need to BE here.” We finally made the move in 2019 and fall more in love with the city every day. I always say, you have to truly love it to live here though because, for being the Big Easy it’s not the easiest place to live, but it will feel make you feel FULLY alive in every moment, that’s for sure. Come on back soon so I can delight in your writing, k?
Margaret
Hey Abby! I’m also a newish (5 years) resident of New Orleans by way of my sweet home Chicago. There is something in the spirit of both of these cities that I can feel in my bones and I love that someone else in the universe feels that connection too. Hope to bump into you some magical day! <3
Cyndi
Hi Abby! Great post. I am excited (and grateful) for your New Orleans recommendations. My husband and I went once for a long weekend. We had a wonderful time (how could anyone not?), but we didn’t research it properly and we know we could have gotten so much more out of it than we did. Once we feel comfortable travelling again, we plan to return! We usually research our trips very well before booking but we were very busy. The only other short trip we made this mistake with was Chicago! And of course we need a do-over! The best recommendations and the not-to-be-missed in any city always come from people who are from there. So… Abby?
Abby Mallett
Oh, Cyndi… there’s so little space I have to write in here! I can tell you with absolute certainty that we are a city that loves food. There’s Michigan Avenue, yes, sure, it’s the mini Times Square of the city, but I would encourage you to explore the neighborhoods of Chicago. If you’re baseball fans, head north to Wrigleyville and be careful cuz you’ll just end up in a giant party and it’s THE BEST. (also Lincoln Park, Lakeview and Uptown are ADORABLE) If you’re near the center of town head slightly west to West Loop and hit Randolph Street to an area called Restaurant Row. There’s too many good places to count. Master chef Stephanie Izard’s restaurants live there and adored Chicago/PBS Chef Rick Bayless’ places are there as well. Have fun!!
Abby Mallett
AND TAKE AN ARCHITECTURE TOUR BY BOAT IF YOU LOVE HISTORY N THINGS! okay bye for real haha
Cyndi
Wow, that’s awesome! Thank you so much, Abby!!
Michael Grasso
Hi Abby, What a heart warming scene of my favorite US city, New Orleans !!!! I am a retired Executive Chef / Food Director. My husband and I are from Chicago but we have gone to New Orleans more times than we can count. Great for you and for your future visits. Next time there go to one of our favorite restaurants , The Gum Shop and have chicken espagnole. Look forward to another post. We have crystals , plants and New Orleans in common.
Best To You,
Michael
Abby Mallett
Hello Michael, thank you for your kind words! I will definitely add The Gum Shop to my list – I love that I’m finding so many Chicago/New Orleans folks here!
Shila Soni
I loved reading this and it felt like I was in New Orleans with you, with a mountain of powdered sugar also on my shirt. I’m not planning any travels soon, but I’d like to think vacation Shila is similarly relaxed and adventurous.
Libby
Fine, Abby, I’ll book another trip to Nola. YOU HAVE CONVINCED ME!
Also I took a peek around that hotel’s site and HOLY MOLY. I want to go to there.
Kerry
Hi Abby, I almost decided not to post this because everyone seems to be saying the same thing … but I decided to forge on anyway! I love how you wrote this article. I don’t believe I will ever get to New Orleans, nor will I probably ever meet you, but your article was an inside into a little of both and I thought it was quite special. A small piece, but written from the heart. Have you ever written a novel, or thought about it? You could write your way around the states of America and by the end we would be full of travel, full of the food offerings (that would not go straight to our hips) and more knowledgeable about you. It would be fab. Please write more.
Abby Mallett
Kerry! You’ve made my entire day! Writing a novel would be a dream I would LOVE to make true. Thank you for your kind words they made me cry a little bit!
Shila
Oooh I would read this book! I too love your writing Abby!