I love this big crazy city. I’ve lived here for quite a long time and there are a handful of important things to understand about Los Angeles: don’t use the 405 unless someone is paying you for your time and gas mileage, know your dry cleaner by name, shop at an awesome wine shop, and know thy taco truck. I get a lot of requests for Los Angeles recommendation from readers who find themselves visiting this city. Here’s a hearty beginning: where to eat, where to sit, where you might want to pray, and some dang spicy Thai food (among other things).
xo joy
The Best Little Crowded Place to Get Wine is Venice Beach Wine Bar. It’s small and cozy and has an almost communal seating feel. It’s a neighborhood bar that fills up every night… and even though it’s packed, it’s the kind of place that feels like you can always find a seat. They also sell wine by the bottle… and maybe you’ll see Zach Galifianakis there.
For Church on Sunday Morning I love Ecclesia Hollywood. The community of people who make up this church is warm, welcoming, talented, and creative. This church makes this biiiiiig city, feel like a small, connected, Godly place.
Sit in the lobby at Shutters, Santa Monica. They’ll bring you water and free potato chips and you can sit in the beach-sun without getting sand in your shoes. There’s a cocktail bar downstairs and loads of beach to walk on should you feel sand-and-sunny. Also in the neighborhood is The Viceroy. This hotel is for the cool kids and totally worth a visit.
You won’t be orange. It’s organic. It’s spray tan. I’ve done it because I’m pale and I wear sunscreen and sometimes I just don’t want to be as pale as the day is long. Don’t you judge me.
For old-school Los Angeles eats, I adore Phillipe’s French Dip Sandwiches. I’ve gone to Phillipe’s (literally) all of my life. My parents met working right across the street from this sandwich shop. My grandfather loved two things: baseball and Phillipe’s. So yea, this LA eatery is in my blood. I order a double-dipped roast beef sandwich, potato salad, coconut cream pie, lemonade, and coffee. I’m not shy.
Thai Food is serious business. Night + Market on Sunset Blvd is really the only way to go. Night+Market is Thai street food. Yes, there’s Pad Thai… but there are also awesome dishes like Cat Fish Tamales and Fried Pig Tail. It’s bold and seriously spicy food. The wine list is also STELLAR. The restaurant is located right at the end of the Sunset Strip… it’s sort of an adventure.
There are two places to eat sausage and pie and they happen to be neighbors. Wurstkuche sells house-made fancy German hot dogs. I tend to top mine with a questionably large amount of sauerkraut. Their fries are bonkers thick and don’t even get me started on the dipping sauces. Right across the street is The Pie Hole. These people care about pie. Their Key Lime Meringue Pie is perfect with a cup of coffee and a cute date.
Good food and good taste can be found at Sqirl Jam. Jessica makes some of the most delicious jams I’ve ever tasted and has recently expanded her jam kitchen to include breakfast treats, savory bites, and uh-mazing coffee. Jessica is also beyond kind and hilarious. Stop in. Say hello!
Really great pizza can be found at Mozza. They serve the sort of yeasty, bubbly, thin crust pizza with super fancy toppings that you could never replicate at home. Because the pizza is so bonkers good, reservations are important… BUT there’s a secret: sitting at the bar is the place to be. Hop in early or stop by late night to nab a seat at the bar for pizza and wine.
Of course, I’ve got all of my very favorite bakeries scoped out. As a professional chocolate croissant eater, this is all just part of the deal: Huckleberry is the best bakery in Santa Monica. Go for the chocolate croissants and the doughnuts. They really are the best in the city. Proof Bakery knows great GREAT bread. Clementine is a sweet spot for a homemade treat. They also have a meatloaf sandwich that I would like to make my best friend. Lastly, the dessert bar at The Bazaar in the SLS Hotel is BONKERS. You really do have to see it to believe it.
Everyone is on a juice diet. Kale juice from Pressed Juicery is good (and totally expensive), but ice cream from Scoops is better (on the wallet at least).
Los Angeles has some nice places to linger. I love Elysian Park for city views, people and dog watching. This is also a spot for a morning run and real-life stair climbing. Pick up a few bites of fancy food at Cookbook before hitting the hills.
Venice Beach is also a pretty awesome/crazy place to linger. The boardwalk is full of weirdos and henna tattoos. Abbot Kinney is full of super cute (though totally expensive) shops and restaurants.
My favorite spot on the boardwalk is N’ice Cream. My favorite spots on Abbot Kinney are Gjelina and The Tasting Room. These are the sorts of really posh places where you’re liable to run into Luke Wilson or some such handsome actor.
A good patio is so important. I love this secret garden feeling spot called Axe.
Sometimes a coffee shop turns into an office. La Mill in Silverlake is the best spot for these sorts of afternoons. I also love Paper and Plastik and Coffee Commissary.
Oysters are a luxury. L&E Oyster is top-notch (and it’s just across the street from La Mill… so it’s the perfect after-office dinner treat).
A good wine shop is everything. It’s hard for me to find a wine shop that can meet my wine needs. Mostly I want to be able to walk into a wine shop and describe wine by comparing it to cozy sweaters, barn yard animals, and lipstick colors. I know so little about tannins, acidity, and viscosity… I just know I like good wine that pairs well with kettle corn. Domaine LA is the answer. It’s unpretentious, affordable, and they have some really amazing wine.
Part two of I Love You, Los Angeles will be all about prop shopping, thrift stores, and lipstick. Stay tuned!
83 Responses
Used your post to help with our 20th anniversary trip to LA from PA–we had a great time and enjoyed several of your suggestions….they were perfect! Especially loved Huckleberry and Clementine’s. Could eat there everyday :) Thanks so very much for this post–it was perfect!
When are you going to post Part 2 of I Love You – Los Angeles – we are visiting the week of Christmas and it sure would be helpful! Thanks!
Joy, I have lived in the Los Angeles area my entire life and you still managed to make it sound like another country! I love that. You made our city sound like the wonderful, vibrant, diverse city it is. We aren’t all Hollywood and gang wars. People live and love here and you did an awesome job of promoting this wonderful place I call home.
Joy,
I was born and raised in LA, now I live in Maine. Loved your post on Maine and LA. You have named so many spots that I haven’t visited before, I will have to visit in Feb and look them up! Hope you are having a fabulous weekend! Nettie
Loved reading this. Just visited LA for the first time middle of October and had a blast. Most of the time we spent further up the coast, but we stopped by Venice Beach (crazy but fun) and ate at Figtree Cafe. I was so impressed with the food throughout Cali AND the people … everyone was so friendly and helpful! I fell like that isn’t the typical report you hear from visitors. And we must have lucked out because we didn’t stop in any traffic on the 405 (hit it at the right time of day). Can’t wait to go back and try some of your recommendations someday!
Some local (and way less pricey) spots that didn’t make it to this list:
-The Cow’s End Cafe in Venice. Free wi-fi, DELICIOUS sandwiches and smoothies (Emile Hirsch’s fave is the Tuna Melt sandwich and Venice smoothie, mine is the Caprese Melt and Crazy Monkey ice blended), and totally awesome interior and vibe. Cash only.
-Mao’s Kitchen. Two locations, one in Venice one in Hollywood, on Melrose. Amazing, delicious, Chinese food. It has the “street” vibe and interior, with tables set up to eat family style. Tons of Vegan options, its BYOB and the Venice location is open till 3am on the weekends!
-Larchmont Village Wine Spirits & Cheese in Hollywood. Just go, please, its delicious.
-Clifton’s Cafeterian in downtown LA. Historical landmark and delicious food.
-Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica. There is always a line, but well priced and delicious. Located within a gourmet market that has imported goodies from all over the world. Browse for a while, then order the Godmother.
-Silent Movie Theater on Fairfax, in Hollywood. They are always having amazing showings of new and old independent movies, or themed ones for the holidays. Check out their schedule!
Thank you for making Los Angeles sound so wonderful because we often get such a bad rep! It’s really quite lovely once you get to know it. I love you, Los Angeles!
Very Cool! Thanks for sharing your faves. I love LA and I visit every chance I get although this year it has been zero. My goal is in 2013 to finally FINALLY move there.
You actually make L.A. a place I want to be! I’ve always avoided SoCal on a count of it being all Hollywood-y and what not. But every place has it’s ups and downs I suppose. But if you say ‘s ok then ‘s ok! I’m there.
xo,
shalan
Wow, this post makes me (almost) want to live in L.A. again. I live in a smaller town now, which I love, but I do miss the convenience of the big city…..i.e. not having to drive 2 hours to the nearest Nordstrom (gasp). Next time I’m there for a visit, I’ll have to hit up some of these stops. Thanks, Joy!
Oh I wish this post happened before I went to LA last spring! next time i will visit all those places. I love the pictures, especially the one of the Santa Monica pier- that’s where my first ever ferries wheel ride was :)
Love this list! I live in Venice and STILL haven’t been to VBW. Gotta go!
Oh my godddd! I JUST moved out of LA to the bay area, and was working at The Pie Hole! I wonder if you’ve came in while I was working!
How about a family friendly recomendation? I live in San Bernardino but every few months my family (my love, and three children four and under) go to an occularist for the four year old (she is blind and wears prosthetic eye pieces). Anyhoo, we’re always hungry after the long appointments but are hesitant to go to non-chain restaurants cause you never know what you’re gonna get which is a little scary with three hungry children. The occularist is right on Larchmont and Beverly… any thoughts?
what about pinks in hollywood..you didnt mention pinks!!…not the best dog in LA but the line waiting and flies..the ambiance with plastic chairs throws you off when you see the celeb picks on the walls..and if you love a ginormous hot dog drowning in every topping you can imagine..this is the place to be..cheap,fast and yummy, and even sticky tables…a cool place to slum..or eat your way out of a hangover!
Thanks so much for this list! I just e-mailed this post URL to my dad since he and my brother are taking a trip to L.A. next month! :-) You are awesome!
Great list Joy, thanks. LA to me seems to be a place from another world! Can one survive without a car at all?!
Joy! You are. so. much. fun!!!! Thanks for sharing all this! Even your church. :)
This is the LA I never experienced growing up in Burbank. I can’t wait to visit these places the next time I visit. Looking forward to part 2 of this series! :)
I’m obsessed with the grape and brie sandwich at Venice Beach Wine Bar. My parents are coming into town tomorrow from DC and I’m taking them to Oscar’s next door, although I may try to snag a table at Superba instead. Rose Ave. is blowing up!
Great post! I love this city. It’s crazy, laid back and intense, glittery and dirty, just a mishmash but that’s why I love it.
Most days I would sell my soul for a Langer’s #19.
Looks like I’ll have to make a trip to LA at some point!
suuuch a beautiful place. my dad lived in la for a while, and i used to go visit him as a kid. it’s like this wonderland to me. thanks for sharing your tips :)
I can never have too many sweets so I’ll be checking out Scoops for sure. Have you been to Sweet Rose in Brentwood? It’s currently my go-to for ice cream :)
I needed this last weekend when I was in the area (Pasadena) for a wedding! It’ll keep til my next trip. I knew you’d have the inside scoop.
I’ve always wanted to visit LA. I appreciate these awesome recommendations. I’ll definitely check a few of them out when I finally make it there someday. Thank you for sharing!
Joy, this post could not have come at a better time-hubs and I left Florida today for a crazy drive ‘cross country to our new home in LA!! This info is more than helpful for two soon-to-be fishies out of water!!! You’re amazing.
I LOVE this post! Thanks for sharing, Joy!
You have to try bottega Louie downtown for $2 macaroons (earl get dusted with gold leaf and salted Carmel are the best) and $1 beignets with raspberry filling. so fun to go at night and watch the chefs make gourmet salads for their expensive resturaunt while you snack on pastries! I hear they have a killer brunch and chocolate soufflé as well!
Sigh. I hear it’s 80 degrees in LA today. It’s 40 degrees in Paris. It feels really silly to be complaining about being in Paris, but there it is. You’re really making me homesick!
Wurstkuche is the best!!! I volunteered to drive to L.A. because I knew in the back of my mind, it would be an opportunity to get the best fries and sausage around!
OMG the one place I miss more than anything since moving out of California is Phillipe’s. I have been craving a double dip pork sandwich with swiss cheese, macaroni salad and their pickled eggs.
Thanks so much for sharing this LA round-up! Can’t wait to get some coffee and pie next time I’m there!
Southern California is home for me so this list will come in handy when I come home over Xmas and NY’s. There are so many great places to dine, sit and chill and it’s so easy to take it all for granted. Now that I’m thousands of miles from So Cal, I find myself acting like a tourist whenever I’m in town. Thanks for sharing your faves because I haven’t been to a single place you’ve mentioned. One thing I absolutely DO NOT miss is the crazy traffic. It’s one of the top reasons I don’t want to move back. However, your comprehensive list does stir that itch to return, even if it is just for the holidays!
You must have known I am coming next weekend! Hopefully I can check out at least one of these spots!
Dang! I wish you would have done this this summer! I Was there in August!
Awesome! I haven’t been to LA since I’ve been grown, but must make a trip down from SF soon. Especially since there are doughnuts and wine! I always thought LA was full of nothing but exposed belly buttons and large sunglasses. So wrong.
Now you’ve done it. I miss California soooo much! I was born in Fresno, lived in San Jose until I graduated high school and college, then moved to southern California after marriage. Now Arkansas {sigh}. I think it’s time to come home.
Nice list Joy! Ah I have such a love/ dislike relationship with this city but seeing lists like this remind me that there really are some great places! :-)
I’ve always wanted to visit L.A.! one day I’ll make it out to the west coast :)
Thank you for this post! As an LA newcomer I am forever grateful. I’m always scoping for this information and dreaming of my next adventure. I made it to Abbot Kinney and got an incredible brisket bahn mi and kale salad at GTA, took it to Venice Beach by way of the package store for a good IPA and sat at Venice beach to eat with a couple of my favorite people. I thought to myself, now I’m getting to know LA.
We moved here from Minneapolis, so if you ever find yourself in that part of the country (book signing) number one, you have a ton of fans there (Mpls./St. Paul Food Bloggers) I can help you find all of the killer places to get what you’re describing here. Now that LA is my home I’m grateful for you sharing your discoveries with me.
this is awesome. i went to school in Santa Barbara and visited LA from time to time, but it always felt like this (figuratively) cold, crowded, busy place that i could never live in. i love how homey it is for you! <3
Eat a French dip at Phillipe’s and do a juice cleanse (from Pressed Juicery) are on my 30 by 30 list!
That’s it. I’m coming for a visit.
Just let me birth this child first so I can drink copious amounts of wine with our chocolate croissants and all will be right in the world.
thank you for the wine bar rec – I live in marina del rey and have yet to go to that wine bar!! will check it out.
also, the restaurant on abbot kinney is called the tasting kitchen :)
Whew! I’m glad some of my east side spots made the cut. Proof is major in my book – and walking distance!
Bucket list just expanded by half a page. Well done joy. Well done.
You’re making me long for my hometown :) Three places I have to add to the list: Wayfarer’s Chapel on the Palos Verdes Peninsula, Carney’s on the Sunset Strip for hot dogs and chili (and cold beer!) and Junior’s Deli on Westwood. I need to visit. SOON!!!
love this list. I lived in LA for 8 years and visited many of these places. Clementine and Huckleberry are two of my all-time faves.
Joy… you rock.
thanks for this! i’ve now only lived in LA for a few months, and it is hard to break into – there’s just so much of everything. having a guide makes it all a little easier.
any thoughts on seriously great chinese food?
I now have a whole new list of places to visit when I come back to LA — soon! We’ll have to hang out at a fun spot.
Also, true story: my best friend and I got busted by Scoops employees because we went twice in one day. I’m only there sometimes! I had to! Brown brown bread ice cream is TOO GOOD to only have once, am I right? It was embarassing, in a good way.
This is the truth and I ‘m not even ashamed. Okay, I was kind of ashamed when I went back 2 days later with a boy and the Scoops guy were all, “Hey you’re back AGAIN!” But now I’m okay.
There’s zero shame in my ice cream game. ZERO. Especially when it comes to Scoops.
I can’t wait for the second part – I am not a native Angeleno, so thanks for all the amazing recommendations – I have so many tabs open now! Also, thanks for the Pressed Juicery preview, I’ve never been to one so have no idea what to expect, but there is one opening at the end of my block.
Nice tour I really get that LA feeling. You made me want to go to Venice Beach and Pier. Neat City
So maybe it’s because I’ve lived in Chicago my whole life but I’ve always wondered how people who live in LA don’t miss real seasons. Sure, winter can get real old real fast in Chicago but there is something so wonderful about a real nip in the air and a cozy snowstorm. I need seasons! Don’t you crave winter now and then?
nope.
Lol at this one word response. I live in the south suburbs of Chicago (Joliet), grew up in Milwaukee, and as much as I absolutely with my whole heart love the midwest, I would not miss below zero temperature s and snow.
I agree. I need seasons. I live and love chicago.
Your blog makes me miss Los Angeles (and Scoops and Mashti Malone’s and all of the other amazing places to eat). It always makes me sad when people don’t appreciate the greatness of LA.
I should know better than to check on your blog at quarter to one in the morning… reading about Philippes has made my tummy all hungry.
I’ll definitely be using this as a guide next year when I visit! xx s
My husband & I are Idaho transplants (been here 15 years now) and I never imagined how much I’d come to love this city. Yes, traffic can be a nightmare. Yes, we could have bought a mansion somewhere else in the country for what we paid for our tiny house (1425 sq. ft and we have 4 kids) on the Westside. Yes, the thought of a large earthquake scares the living day lights out of me. We wouldn’t change any of that though. We love LA with her history and diversity. Thanks for sharing some of your favorite spots in our lovely city. Oh, love, love, love Phillipe’s!
I’ve live in LA my whole life (still here in on the westside) and I only have been to a couple of places you mentioned. Sigh. But I do appreciate the love thrown at the wonderful city. It’s big and messy, but it’s home.
Great post Joy! I’ve never spent much time in LA and have all kinds of unsupported, probably completely made up assumptions about it. This makes me want to learn what LA is really all about.
reading this makes me want to live there!
thank you for this post! i went to ucla, but i was so young (and without car), that i feel like i never really lived in los angeles. can’t wait to try out some of these places you raved about!
This made me super homesick. I’m from LA living in Portland, and I just have to say that LA has my heart wholly and completely. I love that silly, weird place.
I grew up outside of LA and moved to Boston 4 years ago to be with the love of my life (we’re still in love and about to walk down the aisle, phew), this post TOTALLY made me tear up. I miss Los Angeles so much. So so much. I may print this and read it in January, because clearly I’m narcissistic.
I love LA, I just wish I could go visit more often. My fav place is Venice Beach, I just love the whole vibe of it.. Next time I’m definitely going to check the Venice Beach Wine Bar you recommended…sounds amazing!
Edinburgh felt very exotic, until now. Screw Scotland, I want to move to LA!
I love these travel posts. I’ve never been, but this makes me want to go at some point. And, because you’re wonderful, you’ve covered all the important bases. :)
Cute idea for a mini-series! LA can seem huge, great to have suggestions for the next time I go back!
Oh this post makes me so ‘homesick’ for the month that I spent in LA this summer. We stayed just off Abbot Kinney and I have to completely agree with your recommendation of N’ice Cream…I’m still thinking about the salted caramel ice cream there and I think Gjelina is probably my favourite ever restaurant. I’ve never had food that I loved so much. We’re going back to LA next March for 10 days and I can’t wait to revisit all my old favourites and find some new ones thanks to this post!
Fun post! I love San Diego because it’s more quaint and easier to get around than LA, but when I see posts like this, I am reminded that I need to trek up there more often. Love all the pics, links, details, thoughts and can’t wait to see Part 2 – thrift stores. THAT’s worth the drive :)
After living in LA for almost 9 years, I moved to Austin just a few months ago. This post made me teary, I miss it so much!
My favorites are:
The Bagel Broker for bagels (yummmm)
and in the same strip mall…
Food Fair by Diego for the cheapest, best dinner with the friendliest staff. Only neighborhood people know Diegos, but he deserves a much wider fan base!
Joans on Third for baked goods
Scoops for ice cream (OH GOD I MISS SCOOPS)
Mashti Malones for ice cream if Scoops is closed or if you want delicious Persian ice cream
The Shortstop for nonstop fun dancing and cheapish drinks
The Varnish for fancy cocktails and a speakeasy feel (and they’re in the back of Cole’s which I actually prefer to Philippes for French dips! Sorry, Joy!)
The Hollywood Farmers’ Market on Sunday mornings for great produce, good prepared food and awesome people watching
Oh, I could go on, but I’ll stop. Enjoy LA for me. I’ll be back soon, I hope!