I walked 37 miles, in one pair of Pumas, over 6 days in London. I figure that’s a mile for every time the words ‘fish & chips” “one pint” or “another croissant, please” fell out of my mouth and food appeared on my plate.
I’ve been to London before. Each time for a stop-over headed elsewhere, ooorr the sort of trip with no room for variance where you find yourself looking up at Big Ben wondering how you’ll ever get a good picture of it and prove you were actually in London and knew it. That is to say, I’ve never wandered London always hungry and just slightly lost. That’s a fantastic experience.
I was in town teaching a workshop in Notting Hill about food styling and photography. The rest of the time my friend Jessica would make dinner, share tea, and shove me in different London directions. Thank you, Jessica! Here are some of my favorites from my week of adventuring.
Some of the first sentences Jessica spoke to me upon my arrival were, “Go to Borough Market. Go by yourself. Eat everything but especially the oysters. Please eat the oysters”. She was right! It’s best navigated as a solo adventure so you can wander the stalls in seven rounds, stopping every other round to chat with the old French oyster man who will shuck two fresh just for you. They were sweet and lightly minerally and very near earthly perfection. Also at Borough Market, a very fine / very serious / VERY hearty + heartwarming bakers: Bread Ahead.
The Chipping Forecast is a casual, early evening restaurant for great Fish & Chips. They fry their fish in beef dripping and have rose wine ON TAP, so… hallelujah and amen!
Just down the way from The Chipping Forecast in Notting Hill is The Tin Shed. Perfect coffee and breakfast spot! Their croissants are light and tender and chewy in just the right way… plus they have an incredible bagel and smoked salmon situation. Pro-tip, head for a seat downstairs and scope out their open bakers, back patio, and some really nice photography light!
I had an epiphany at real-life Ottolenghi. By ‘real-life Ottolenghi’ I mean the brick and mortar store, not just the flawless cookbook on my shelf. Real-life Ottolenghi is like an edible museum of fresh and stunning food. Salads, greens, vegetables, grains are piled high on platters, artfully, casually, perfectly…. It’s almost disarming and certainly a refreshing way to interact in a restaurant. It’s right.
Pub culture makes London feel super welcoming and neighborhoody. One of my favorite stops on this trip is the The Churchill Arms. Flowers and greens adorn the building, old chamber pots hang from the inside ceiling, and there’s a Thai food rainforest towards the back. It’s the best for a cold cup of Guinness and really spicy Thai food if you don’t mind the waitresses yelling at you a little (ok… actually a lot).
A walk down the road from The Churchill Arms is my favorite restaurant in London: Ffiona’s. Small, homey, REALLY FANTASTIC FOOD, great wine… just exactly where you want to be just about every night of the week. Ffiona is fantastic, and her sister is downstairs ruling the kitchen. Please go and enjoy whatever Ffiona tells you to eat especially if it’s meatballs or lamb.
Indian Breakfast!? Heck yes! Head out to Dishoom for Bacon Naan rolls or Indian spiced scrambled eggs. They also have incredible decor and seating and Chocolate Chai. These are all very good words.
Soft, doughly, rightly browned, cardamom buns from Fabrique. With milky tea or a dark Americano… it’s perfect fuel for a long afternoon walk through London parks.
Also very good long afternoon London walks:
Royal Academy of Arts and a trip across to road to Fortnum & Mason for tea browsing and souvenirs.
An American in London at The Electric Diner. Very good for a solo bar burger and a movie night at The Electric!
The Thomas Cubitt gastropub for oysters and champagne and majorly rewarding feelings of playing hookie on a weekday. It’s a good lunch linger.
Wild At Heart is a charming wedge in Notting Hill that sells beautiful bouquets of fresh flowers. Perfect for gifting your hostess or Instagraming, or apparently… baby chasing.
The Laslett is a modern but cozy hotel for afternoon scones and clotted cream and fresh jam and tea. And clotted cream. And clotted cream. Pass the clotted cream. I love you, London! You were good to me and I thank you! Jessica… see you real real soon!
Lindsey
Where is that apron from??? I love it!!!
joythebaker
Hedley and Bennett
Meg's Everyday Indulgence
Love all of this! My husband was in London for 2 weeks this summer and I joined him for 1 of He weeks. I wondered the streets and explored while he worked and it was one of the best experiences of my life. I was worried before about navigating around the city but it was way easier than I had imagined. What a great city!
Renee (@Awesomeon20)
We went down to London for the weekend about a year ago and walked 35 miles in two days. It’s impossible to stop. There’s just so much to see, do, and eat. Last time I was there I got an epic burrito along the south shore of the Thames. My heart and my taste buds were both very happy.
Alice
This is such a lovely post, I really want to go to Dishoom!! Great photos. Alice xx
http://www.aliceadventures.co.uk
64colorbox
London is my favourite city in the world! I’m glad you enjoyed your time there.
Adrianna from A Cozy Kitchen
oh man i love london so very much. ottoleghni’s spot in notting hill is so cute. all those baked goods when you walk in…holy! also went to borough market but did not get the oysters! :( i messed up
cakevsscales
I LOVE that you visited London, I try and head to the city as often as I can. I know I’m biased but the food choices really are fantastic, plus we are really embracing the street food concept also.
As long as you eat traditional fish’n’chips, scones, prestat chocolate (the red velvet truffles are incredible, expensive but incredible) and anything from Ottolenghi’s you’ll be fine.
xx
http://www.cakevsscales.com
saltandserenity
Such beautiful pictures! You packed so much eating into such a short time. My kind of trip. I was in London for a few days at the beginning of September and a friend who lives there took us to Dishoom for breakfast. I’m still dreaming about the bacon egg naan roll! We also had an amazing dinner at Nopi. Can’t wait to get back. So sorry I wasn’t able to join in the workshop.
Lori
Love hearing your recommendations! Sounds amazing!
lorevi23
Amazing love those pictures!!!
http://www.enjoylondon.co
Abbi
Okay– WHAT is clotted cream?!
Blanca Oliver
I absolutely love London!
And I can’t fathom a visit without a late lunch at the Electric diner, so happy that you got to go. Pro tip: their Bloody Marys are great and their “honey-fried chicken, chili, sesame seeds” is crunchy, gooey, sweet spicy perfection! It’s also the first place I ever tasted Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and now it’s my favourite. :)
I definitely need to plan a new visit soon ;)
Lauren
Joy, I have been following you for years and must have read every article you’ve linked on the Let it be Sundays. I love it all and have sent so many friends to your blog. I’m originally from Detroit, but have been abroad and now living in London since 2010. I didn’t know about the Notting Hill Workshop until I saw your post–and it turns out two American friends of mine also living here in London saw you speak–and you were their favorite part of the weekend. So happy you enjoyed London–I love your picks and have just added Ffiona’s to my everlasting list. Thanks for all you do…and please never stop the Let it Be Sundays! (Next time, eat at Brindisa next to Borough Market and Brasserie Zedel, among so many more!) Lauren x
Katharine blair
My 13 yr old is in London next week and I’ll be there in December. I’ve bookmarked most of this post to send along to her.
Robby
Oh, Fortnum & Mason! I felt I spent a decadent amount of money on tea for me and for gifts when I was there. After I got home I wondered why I hadn’t bought more. Such a divine cuppa.
Michelle
Yay! I am going to London at the end of the year, and while I have been before, I have never been to any of these places. Am now adding a few to my list to check out :)
Elizabeth Walsh
Joy, so pleased you came to London and glad that you had a great time. Any time you want to experience the England outside of London – let me know. The garden of England (Kent) has wonders that you would love!
Nichole
This makes me hungry for walking, freedom, & good food in a way I didn’t know I was hungry. We all need a friend like you & Jessica to remind us & tell us to go walk & eat.
Lynn
Loving your list! Heading there end of October. Already have reservations at Honey & Co, Ottolenghi’s Nopi and The Savoy for Tea. Will definitely be adding some of these to the list as well.
Angela Knox
Great picks, Lynn. Honey & Co was my favorite meal I ate. Stopped in alone, and got a seat in the window. Get extra hummus. Also, Nopi was a dream. You picked well!
Jacqueline Gariano
What great food pictures. I am totally in love. I’m sure it all tasted as good as it looks. I’ll bet every bite was well worth it.
Kelly
My husband and I ate our way around Borough Market during our trip to London two years ago. We were especially enamored with the Scotch eggs. So, so good. We also enjoyed really fantastic beef at Hawksmoor, if you’re into that kind of thing. Afternoon tea at Fortnum and Mason was fun (and touristy and fun). We’re planning to go back in the spring.
Stacy
I love walking through London with my husband, who grew up there. But he only knows his old neighborhoods, so in that way he’s been a tourist with me in parts of the city he doesn’t know. (He’s still aces at the Tube, though). The last time we were there, we went to Ottolenghi, which I loved. Unfortunately, my beloved was suffering from a serious summer cold. We will definitely go back-it was so good. Looks like you had a great trip, Joy.
peppermintdolly
YAY! I’m so glad you went to Wild At Heart, it’s my absolute favourite!!
Rxx
http://www.peppermintdolly.com
Meaghan
This is my kind of travel guide!! Looks like a great trip :)
Lissi
I love London, too! Thank you for sharing your travels, Joy; your photos look like you saw the city the way my family likes to see it. :)
rae tashman (@lovefromberlin)
Sounds like your time in London was full of lots of incredible food (and lots of walking, but places like London and NYC always involve heaps of walking!). Your food styling and photography course sounds so interesting, I had no idea you offered these. Would love to participate!
Rae | Love from Berlin
Kristin
Ffiona’s is my absolute favorite in London!! You can’t beat the food or the friendly at-home atmosphere! We didn’t get a chance to make it to Churchill Arms, but that’s definitely on our list for next time, along with Borough Market – and we’ll have to add the other places you mentioned! Fish and chips with rose on tap? Yes please!!
Dale
wow you really got around. Ottolenghi really is sublime – in print and for reals!
Oceana | Maps & Mandalas
Sounds like a fantastic food adventure!
sweetandinspiring
Joy delighted you love London. Spitalfields Market next for you and make sure you try the Crosstown Doughnuts….tough choice with a Dept Repubic Coffee xx
Rachel
You certainly did get some good recommendations here, because these are all Londoner favourites rather than tourist favourites – so glad you had fun, and you’re making me miss living in London. Funny, because usually it is L.A. people are making me miss!
Rena
I see you walked really many miles in London! I have to admit that I walked not that much miles in London as I was obviously not able to love London as much than you :)
xx from Bavaria/Germany, Rena
http://www.dressedwithsoul.com