When people ask me how I like living in New Orleans I ask a question in return. Have you ever been to New Orleans? If you’ve been here, you have an idea of the strange, joyous, beautiful, gnarly magic. In some ways it’s hard to describe unless you’ve experienced it.
I started my New Orleans journey 2 years ago, in the French Quarter, having moved there from Venice, California. Living in the French Quarter is like living on Mars… if Mars had a Disneyland… and if that Disneyland were two hundred years old… and everyone was drunk. The French Quarter is New Orleans, but it’s not the only part of New Orleans. Sure, there are a boatload of tourists stumbling around the French Quarter on any given day, but that’s because it’s an incredible place to visit. Don’t miss it thinking you’re too cool for school… because no one is that cool (except probably Beyonce).
Native New Orleanians might argue that I’m not entitled to any of the below opinions about where to eat and what to do because I’ve been here for such a short time, because I got here after the storm, because I’ve never caught a coconut in the Zulu parade… and they’re right. New Orleans is a place you have to earn, everyday… and I’m well aware that I’m still working on it. Still though. I have thoughts, and these are some of them.
The one overarching opinion about New Orleans, native or not, is that we want you to visit. Genuinely. We want you to come enjoy what we enjoy about this city, take lots of pictures, have a daiquiri, listen to the music, eat all of the food. We want you here because we love it here.
Incidentally, DO NOT: drink any alcoholic beverage sold in a plastic fish bowl, wear flip-flop sandals in the French Quarter, drink a Hurricane before noon (or ever, really), take a vampire tour, or take your top off (people don’t actually do that). Ok? Cool.
I’m going to break this guide up into my favorite New Orleans neighborhoods. This is, by no means, an extensive list, just a helpful place to start. New Orleans neighborhood maps, as a guide, with some handy printable versions for you.
• Café Amelie 912 Royal St. New Orleans, LA 70116 // A lovely courtyard brunch.
• Carousel Bar and Lounge 214 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 // Try to sit at the rotating bar and have a Sazerac!
• Sylvain 625 Chartres St New Orleans, LA 70130 // I love to sit at the bar and eat a burger. It’s a really good burger. This is perhaps the best restaurant in the Quarter.
• Cafe Du Monde 813 Decatur St New Orleans, LA 70116 // Gotta go. Just go.
• Napoleon House 500 Chartres St New Orleans, LA 70130 // Have a Pimm’s Cup and look around at how old the walls are.
• Bar Tonique 820 N Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70116 // A very happy Happy Hour and an excellent late night hang.
• Spitfire Coffee 627 St Peter St, New Orleans, LA 70116 // Best coffee in the Quarter.
• UAL 518 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Designer shopping, very good prices. I love this place!
• Cochon + Cochon Butcher 930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Undeniably great lunch and dinner. The grilled oysters and a Sazerac are a thing of beauty.
• Peche 800 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Sit at the bar and order too many oysters. It won’t be cheap but it’s fun and worth it.
• Herbsaint 701 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130
• Keife & Co 801 Howard Ave, New Orleans, LA 70113 // The best wine shop in town!
• Barrelproof 1201 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Go get you some whisky.
• Reyn Yoga 725 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Sweat it out.
Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave New Orleans, LA 70130 // It’s an experience. Weekend brunch is the move. Walk around the cemetery across the street after your meal. Quintessential New Orleans.
Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St New Orleans, LA // Be careful, the margaritas are really good and go down like water. Also, the taco salad is surprisingly delicious.
Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // A very good sandwich and some Philadelphia attitude.
District Donuts Sliders Brew 2209 Magazine St. New Orleans, LA 70130 // Forget the beignets, go here for a donut. (I might get kicked out of New Orleans for saying that).
Garden District Book Shop Rink Shopping Center, 2727 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70130 // Buy books from actual people who love and sell books! (There might be a few signed copies of my cookbook in there too!)
• Atchafalaya 901 Louisiana Ave New Orleans, LA 70115 // Such a wonderful neighborhood restaurant. The shrimp and grits and duck fat Sazerac are fantastic!
• Coquette 2800 Magazine St New Orleans, LA 70115 // Delicious rotating dinner menu.
• Basin 3222 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Cocktails and oysters and fish tacos.
• Baru 3700 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Latin-Caribbean tapas!
• Surrey’s 4807 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Go for breakfast.
• Maple Leaf Bar 8316 Oak St, New Orleans, LA 70118 // Go for a whisky and great music.
• Patois Restaurant 6078 Laurel St, New Orleans, LA 70118 // One of my favorite restaurants in the city and I can’t believe I’m giving away my secret. Lovely food. Lovely staff. In a homey uptown neighborhood. Everything is right about it.
• Creole Creamery 4924 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Such good ice cream!
• St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St, New Orleans, LA 70115 // Great cheese selection and really good sandwiches.
• Audubon Park 6500 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70118 // Go for a lovely sunset walk.
• Elizabeth’s Restaurant 601 Gallier St. New Orleans, LA 70117 // Really great for breakfast. Of course you’ll get a Bloody Mary and the Praline Bacon. Of course you will.
• The Joint 701 Mazant St. New Orleans, LA 70117 // Delicious Barbecue. Do it. Do not hesitate.
• Satsuma 3218 Dauphine St New Orleans, LA // Where everyone in the Bywater gets their coffee and toast.
• Bacchanal Wine 600 Poland Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117 // One of the best places in all of New Orleans. Buy a bottle of wine. Sit at a folding table. Order some eats. Talk to everyone.
New Orleans inspired recipes on Joy the Baker
Buttermilk Beignets // Red Beans and Rice // Pimm’s Cup Cocktail // Muffuletta Pasta Salad // Shrimp and Grits // Mardi Gras King Cake // Whole Roasted Cauliflower // Bourbon Pecan Pie with Chocolate //
Follow more of my New Orleans adventures on Instagram #jtbnola
Lauren
Well said, Joy! I’ve been in Nola for about two+ years and it’s the best decision of my life. You have to love it, respect it and embrace its culture and history. I think that’s also what native New Orleanians want from us new kids in town.
Catch a coconut (all about the eye contact!).
joythebaker
ALL about the eye contact!
Marsha M-SOCAL
We were there in October and took our daughter and granddaughter for their first trip. I was so sad to see that the Camilla Grill on Toulouse was closed. Do you know if they opened up at a different location. I loved hearing the waiters and the chefs banter back and forth when I went in for a sandwich. My granddaughter loved the Halloween parade and caught her fair share of trinkets. My daughter and granddaughter who do live in Venice, CA loved it. My daughter said it reminded her in ways of Venice. We always have a great time there, and can’t wait to go back.
colbybaking
Marsha M-SOCAL, The original Camellia Grill at St. Charles and Carrollton is still open and awesome, was just there last Sunday with my family.
Marsha M-SOCAL
Thanks so much, I’ll check it out on my next trip to my favorite city!
Marsha - SOCAL
Low and behold, we’re here again for the Halloween parade. Camellia Grill is again open in the FQ on Toulouse and Chartre. Are there once already. So glad to be back!!
joythebaker
Welcome back we’re glad you’re here!
Katie
My husband and I just got back from New Orleans. I don’t think I have ever felt more at home in a new city then I did there. Everything was so wonderful.
Sally
We were there in early December and loved the joint! We also loved cafe 615, home of da wan bit!
Judith Stavisky
Fascinating post. There is always something new to explore in NOLA. A Tulane woman living up north but visit NOLA frequently. Miss the smells around Cafe du Monde, the menu at Bayonne, the sandwiches at Camellia Grill, walking through the Garden District, Magazine Street, the old Pontchatrain Hotel. Elizabeth’s, Patois, Herbisant and Dooky Chase among our favorites haunts. Poke around Bayou Teche, worth the drive and Cafe des Amis, oh my!
Sally
This truly makes me want to visit New Orleans again. Many (many) years ago, during New Year’s, I was there for a wedding of a friend. During one of our adventurous nights out, I did have a hurricane (maybe more than one), and I promise to never do that again. I must add that the southern hospitality that you experience in this fine city, is second to none. Thanks Joy.
olganm
I’ve only visited once but the hotel was right in Bourbon Street and it was a bit of a weird experience, although when we went exploring other areas it was definitely an experience. I’m bookmarking your post for the next visit!
lazyw
I have been waiting for a post like this ever since you moved to the Quarter! Love it, thank you. My husband and I visit NOLA as often as possible. We live in Oklahoma and try to get there several times per year. So naturally we act like experts, haha, and tell our friends our favorite places. You have given me so many new places to visit!! Gorgeous photos, as always. And now I want to visit even harder. Happy New Year Joy the Baker!!
ps– I laughed so hard about your footwear advice. That is always top on my list. ; ))
dc
I’ve never worn flip-flops in the French Quarter…tho’ I did take a ghost tour once (the stories were interesting)! Love NOLA!
thisboymom
I’ve been to New Orleans twice, both times pre-kids, and it’s been a lonnng time (way too long). I love it there. It’s a city that I dreamed about visiting for a very long time, and it didn’t disappoint. One of my sons has severe food allergies, and it’s the one thing that has kept me from taking them. Hopefully some day!
Patrick
Hmmmm…. Joy, first I love your spirit! The chamber of commerce would be thrilled for your lovely review. But, when you write about not wearing flip flops you should say it”s because the city is filthy and those drunks might throw up on your shoes. The city is really only geared up for tourists because it treats its citizens horribly – jail mistreatment and overcrowding, crime huge in New Orleans East, restaurants and diners getting robbed at gun point by masked men in Uptown, drinking water system shut down a number of times in the past year because bacteria may have entered it, citizen groups banding together in the French Quarter to escort each other around so they are not robbed or accosted, roads and streets in disrepair, overcrowding at all the events, etc. etc. Joy you write about a city when it wears its make-up – take that make up off and it’s a city that isn’t so charming and the underbelly is pretty ugly. When I daily read the Advocate about all the crime I just shook my head and thought my, my, these criminals are creative! Sadly, these are not one off things – it’s a troubled city and its best seen thru a monied lens. But, as Joy very accurately states they have the food thing down in a way few other cities can match and at all price points, although overall bring lots of money for food – it’s expensive! And they have the intense loyalty to the New Orleans Saints (hey there”s always next year!). I always wondered why such a nice girl like Joy is so enchanted with New Orleans – she loves food, writes about food, cooks food so New Orleans is the place to be for that, but given all the rest of it….well ….I”ll take Savannah.
joythebaker
You forgot to mention how they’re going to raise the parking meter prices in the CBD! Listen, I know. I really know. I live around the corner from one the the Uptown restaurants that got robbed during service, I’ve had to boil my drinking water, I lived in the French Quarter last year during that very intense streak of violence. New Orleans is a gnarly place. It’s crooked (in more ways that one), falling down, sometimes scary, and sometime dangerous. It’s not an easy-breezy place to live by any stretch of the imagination. I think that’s part of what I mean when I say ‘you have to earn it’ here. You have to want to live here because, while it’s a lovely place to visit, it’s not always an easy place to live.
Denise in Austin
Well said Joy. New Orleans is an interesting place to say the least. It is broken and decayed but its heart keeps beating despite itself. NOLA truly is the city that will not die no matter what is thrown at it. I lived there for over 20 years and have been gone for 10 years – I miss so many things about it and have thought of returning. But in the end I know I can’t go back – too much water under the bridge (pun intended) and too many ghosts. The food and history cannot make up for the demons. It is a dark and beautiful city that is great to visit and difficult to live in.
secretkeeperr
Incidentally I found your blog about a year ago when I was just looking for any blog to feed my age old New Orleans obsession. Alas, I doubt anything less than getting to the magical city itself will be able to do that for this aussie. I don’t even know how to describe the magic New Orleans has over me but it has been calling for me since I was a child and bloody hell, I plan on answering.
However, your blog has feed me so much sugary goodness that I cannot help but you give you a round of applause in my joythebaker food induced coma.
64colorbox
I love visiting NOLA! I’ll keep you list handy when we visit again. We also like to visit Coop’s Place for their jambalaya.
Bek Watters
I’ve been to America a couple of times, and out of all the places i visited, New Orleans was definitely my favourite, the one place i can never stop talking about! It definitely has some sort of magic about it. And ALL THE JAZZ! The whole city just feels so alive doesn’t it?! Can’t wait to come back one day and eat at all of these places! Thanks for the list! :)
Mariel
Joy! OMG this post couldn’t have been more perfectly timed. I will be going to New Orleans for the first time ever in a few months for a critical care nurse conference and I’m at an absolute loss as to where to start, what to do, where to go. I’m more interested in the historical and cultural aspects of the city (oh, and FOOD) and less interested in getting trashed. So thank you, this is amazing, and happy 2016!